Friday, 14 March 2014

Sacred Hill

Sacred Hill Orange Label Wines- Trio tasting

Pinot Gris Marlborough 2013
Lots of fresh fruit aromatics with a mix of sweet pear, apple - apple juice and white peach, relatively simple, aromatic, varietal and familiar.
Just dry with an immediate hit of spice then warming alcohol then fruit flavors and reflecting what the nose suggested; medium+ youthful acidity, generous flavors and textures. Balanced with medium length and moderate complexity. 
3 stars

Chardonnay Hawke's Bay 2013
Gentle yet familiar yellow flesh stone fruit aroma with a light creamy peach and other stone fruit suggestions, a touch of tropical, citrus; mild vanilla oak and light oak spice notes.
Palate reflects the nose well - with all the flavors and textures that get Chardonnay drinkers excited - sweet vanilla and oak, creamy texture, dry but not too so and peach nectarine and hints of raw brown sugar tease the palate. Balanced with medium length and medium complexity.
3.5 Stars

Pinot Noir Marlborough 2013
Lots of varietal fruit signatures with red and dark red cherry aromas, sweet, ripe cranberry and a little red apple skin overlaid with gentle oak spices; fruit forward yet enticing.
A youthful wine on the palate with lots of fresh acidity (M+) and firm texture giving tannins; the fruit flavors rise above any tensity the wine shows at this young age and adds length, but not complexity. This is a crowd pleasing style that ticks all the boxes of a fruity, dry, balanced and well made Marlborough Pinot Noir with gentle dusty tannins. Medium+ length and moderate complexity overall.
3.5 Stars


Monday, 10 March 2014

Poppies


Poppy and Shayne Hammond are the proprietors of 'Poppies' wine brand and 'Poppies' a Wedding, Events and drop-in tasting venue in Martinborough (Puruatanga Road) - not far from Haythornthwaite, Ata Rangi and Schubert wineries if you know the area.

Both Hammond's have carved some of their wine careers out in the vineyards and winery at Dry River Wines so they are well known throughout New Zealand and the world for quality wine.

Unbeknown to some Shayne is an excellent chef so when the opportunity to start Poppies tasting room and wedding venue his culinary skills came in handy with food design and what would work well with the wines on offer.

Poppies is the only place to try and buy their wines - there is nothing available to the trade, but I am hoping that will change in the future especially for Poppy's Riesling - see below.

Poppies Rose 2013 - 100% Pinot Noir 
Classic, full on fruity with red melon, strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruits aromas that translate to the palate with ease; a dry wine which is great for food and plenty of crisp acidity to add charm and freshness; there's a light savory note at the heart of the wine; overall a smart example, balanced with medium length.

Poppies Sauvignon Blanc 2013
A very particular bouquet with a clever wine making hand in action here - sweet angelica then some classic gooseberry, white peach and a little apple; On the palate - dry, varietal and quite specific with some austere fruit flavors and then a little fresh, a mineral coolness, medium++ acidity and long finish make for a very worthwhile taste, if not different, wine experience. 

Poppies Chardonnay 2013 (Mendoza clone)
California peaches are at the core of the fruit with other fresh stone fruits, red apple and the crisp aromas of oak and its vanilla scents; clean fresh palate, fruity with mild+ oak flavors and a sweet vanilla note. Overall a simple yet tasty dry wine; I expect many event guests and wine tasters at the cellar door will adore or just enjoy this style of Chardonnay.

Poppies Pinot Noir 2012
This wine had the best bouquet of the lot with plum toned light red fruits, medium to dark cherry and plenty of enticing oak spices and hints of sweetness; palate confirms this with long fine tannin complexity and medium+ acidity adding a taut and youthful aspect to the wine; a lovely medium+ finish. A must try!

Poppies Pinot Gris 
Actually very nice (I am hard to please when it comes to Gris) with lifted white fruit aromatics, hints of spices and revealing just a little charm; the palate does show a sweet sour attack that some will like, sadly I do not; that said it has really good phenolics - balanced - with medium+ acid nicely off-setting the fruit core; well made and a smartly made crowd pleaser.

Poppies Late Harvest Riesling 2013 (40 gpl rs)
Well I thought the Pinot Noir had the best bouquet and then I nosed this Riesling - wow!
Concentrated with poached orange fruits, sweet mandarin and citrus flowers and minerality; the palate is equally impressive with a youthful, taut and almost poised very high acidity (pH2.89); long and delicious finish - more please!

Sunday, 9 March 2014

The Elder

The Elder Wines Martinborough
Winemaker: Paul Moon

Situated on an old river terrace of the Ruakokapatuna River overlooking the Te Muna valley and under the watchful gaze of the Three Canoes mountains - this is a unique site. 
The ground is as hard as diamonds (well almost) and planting anything at all was more than just a simple task when the site was first developed. Rocks, stones and gravels over limestone make up the soil profile - see pic below.
With less than 3 hectares of vines dominated by Pinot Noir (clones 5,115 and Abel) and a minuscule amount of Pinot Gris - this is a tiny yet very well tended site.


The wines are - well - pretty darn good: Yields are naturally low, concentration high and flavor rather gorgeous. 
One of the key features in the Pinots Noir is the lower than expected use of new oak (11% in the 2010 and 2011 and 18% in the 2012) this allows for maximum flavor, use of skin tannins and naturally higher acidity.

The Elder Pinot Noir 2010
Very soft almost feminine bouquet of light red fruits centering on mid to darker cherry, sweet cranberry and a little red apple skin; a soft oak overlay - not dramatic at all; On the palate lots of fruit concentration with bold fruit tannins adding their own mark of spice and a little oak spice; Taut and youthful with light brown spice notes, cherry fruits and roasted red apple skin. Balanced with medium+ length and complexity.

The Elder Pinot Noir 2011
A little more red fruits show compared with the 2010 - lifted and more masculine aromatics/tones. Also quite closed on the nose overall with a definitive tense message - (leave me alone for a while please - 2 years). On the palate its all Pinosity but very young, there is a freshness to the fruits - slightly cool too; youthful with lots of fruit spice, slightly courser tannins; there is a sweet spot on the palate though that gives me lots of confidence in this wines future; balanced with medium+ length and complexity.

The Elder Pinot Noir 2012
Noticeable red fruits but also with a steely complexity and softer plush edgy- ness; lots of sweet and ripe red fruits with red cherry, a touch of cranberry and red apple skin; on the palate soft and generous with fine tannins - this time from both the oak and fruit; I noticed too the influence of soil with a silty, gravelly note; medium+ acidity, dry with just a nudge of olive leaf. Overall a wine to invest in. 
Leave some for me though please.



Margaret Hanson with a bunch of Pinot Gris that has decided to be Pinot Blanc as well




Saturday, 8 March 2014

Chardonnay Renaissance February 2014

Family of Twelve and Antipodes Water

                          Great Chardonnay Renaissance

February 2014 held at Ostro Restaurant downtown Auckland
                     
The opportunity to taste 18 Chardonnay including twelve from some of New Zealand's premier producers was brilliant occasion.
With Michael Brajkovich MW, Allister Mailing MW, Steve Smith MW and James Halliday leading the panel discussion - there was plenty of palate and experience to listen to.

The point of the event was to take a focused and critical look at the modern expressions of Chardonnay, taste and make comparisons between each wine presented and on this occasion to white Burgundy and New Zealand and ultimately appraise (or not) the efforts of New Zealand winemakers.
All the wine notes below are as I wrote them on the wines tasted (blind) - the title for each wine and link to each producer is added.

Flight 1: 

2011 Lawson’s Dry Hills “The Pioneer” Chardonnay 
Sophisticated, elegant and gentle floral bouquet with light spices and a distinctive citrus peel/flesh bouquet. Great palate textures with notable acidity that had a fresh appeal; low sulphide evidence/interaction/complexity; a balanced, elegant and compelling wine. Youthful.

2012 Nautilus Estate Marlborough Chardonnay
Very creamy peach bouquet, the MLF seems a little more forward, On the palate a crisp and fresh basket of fruits with white tree fruit before stone fruit flavors, toastier flavors and a more noticeable 'flint' character (sulphide) adding complexity, firm youthful acidity, but still an elegant example. Balanced with medium+ length and a medium to medium+ finish.

2011 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Les ForĂȘts 1er Cru
A little more colour and development of the bouquet, complexity shows immediately and with a distinctiveness not unlike a white Burgundy with a mineral layer then citrus and stone fruit attributes. On the palate - dry with medium to medium+ acidity, taut and tense on the front palate then unfurls to reveal a wine with balance, medium+ length and complexity.

2011 Palliser Estate Chardonnay
More oak centred on nose; with aromas of lightly roasted stone fruits and a little citrus; palate is delicious and offers a lot more than the nose suggests; a lovely elegance, poise and balance with a nudge of MLF and sulphide on the finish; Balanced with a long finish and medium++ complexity.

2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
A fruit centred bouquet with apple and pear leading the aromas alongside an elegant and softer complexity; there’s also a touch of funky wine making influence. This follows through on the palate; noticeable medium+ weight and lots of pushy acidity influencing the mineral flavours; nicely dry on the finish; Balanced with medium+ length and finish.

2012 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 2
The bouquet of this wine is familiar in that it displays layers of toastiness and gentle butterscotch; the palate shows a more gentle side with sweet citrus and floral highlights of chamomile; a little sulphide complexity emerges. The lees influences in the wine making push the toasty note, but also add complexity. After this wine was revealed to the group the use of 100% Mendoza clone made sense of the way in which the gentle stone fruit and exotic notes found harmony. 

Flight 2: 

2010 The Millton Vineyard Clos de Ste Anne Chardonnay
On the nose - a bold round and creamy attack with medium+ toast and bourbon-like oak suggestion. On the palate quite forward at first with the fruit then a toasty cheesy layer kicks in and flows into the creamy texture the nose first suggested; delightful balance, medium++ length and complexity. By the time the panel discussion began this example began to reveal its cellar potential and the finish became longer and more elegant.

2010 Domaine Blain Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 
A slightly advanced bouquet - aromas of cooked white fleshed fruits then a floral layer which adds a little complexity; The palate seems a little lean at first, but when the floral aromas turn into flavour as well - the delicate and charm of this wine begins to unfold; overall a solid wine that is balanced with a medium+ ish length and medium complexity. I was surprised that this was a 1er Cru Burgundy when revealed - the lack of texture and terroir attributes did not seem to be so entrenched in this particular example. In returning to the wine at that time it was revealed and re-reading my notes, my impressions were no different.

2010 Craggy Range Les Beaux Cailloux Chardonnay
Toasty, nutty, youthfully poised and tense bouquet; palate reflected the nose with the poise and tensity as well as a closed and youthful pause; that said the flavours send out enticing messages of floral, citrus and lots of elegance; a wine yet to show all it has; medium++ acidity, balanced with medium+ length and finish. Very nice!
  
2010 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Keltern Chardonnay
Classic Burgundy like beginning with a swag of mineral, limestone and chalky aromas, chamomile tea and a little oak; the more the wine is swirled the more it begins to release the [sulphide] intensity that seems a little more than a Burgundy might have – still I like it – could be a Keltern. Palate equals the nose – generous, sophisticated, elegant and stylish. The finish is long and glorious. The overall expression of this wine is quite funky and different. Balanced with a long finish and medium++ complexity.  

2008 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 
Creamy, rich, rounded, nutty and cheesy bouquet – a very specific expression in an Old World style yet a little; duller still as the wine takes on more oxygen - some oxidative notes begin to draw my attention. Judicious use of oak. The palate seems a little flat and oxidised spoiling what the bouquet was trying to suggest. Overall though I liked the wine, I would not buy a bottle based on this particular taste experience.

2010 Pegasus Bay Virtuoso 
Quite a bold bouquet with the mix of fruity aromas and flavours of wine making – different pickings. On the palate a lovely wine; handles the oak well; flavours of citrus, citrus peel and stone fruits emerge; ageing well; balanced, medium+ length and complexity.

Flight 3:  
2012 Neudorf Vineyards Moutere Chardonnay
A very text book ‘Kiwi’ Chardonnay bouquet – oak, butter, cream BUT this example has elegance and charm as well, even a little mystery. Palate is way better than the nose suggests – the texture and medium++ acidity rise easily above the oak and bouquet to reveal a very sophisticated polished wine; Wonderful balance, poise, medium+ complexity long finish.

2010 Fromm La Strada Chardonnay
Gentle slightly roasted stone fruit and apple led bouquet; nutty & sulphide like layer – very complex. Palate confirms the nose with a lovely pure fruit expression, pristine acidity, moderate and well placed oak; balanced with a long finish and medium+ complexity - A quiet and slowly evolving example – delicious!

2010 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru  
A very expressive bouquet - quite a nutty and mineral laden expression with layers of soil, steel and MLF cheesy-ness; Citrus centred fruit flavours with moderate oak and medium+ to high acidity; balanced with medium + length and medium complexity. Creamy oak. Nothing special.

2010 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay
A very specific use of oak leads the bouquet followed by a soft stone fruit and gentle citrys attributes; lean yet plenty of purity of fruit flavours – a very special wine that is poised, gentle, charming and beautifully balanced with a youthful finish – needs time to even begin to integrate. An exciting example.
  
2011 Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay
Elegant, floral, white stone fruit and citrus; palate reflects the nose on flavour; a young, expressive and beautifully balanced; generous, but not invasive or intense oak; a little hint of sulphide adds complexity and length to the finish which is elegant and very long. 
My words don't do this wine justice -  this wine was perhaps my favorite of the tasting - its charm and elegance won my palate over and respect for delicious Chardonnay.

2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
White smoke and nutty richness, slightly juicy yet clean stone fruit and tree fruits in the bouquet; The palate has an 'Old World' layer with mineral and light clay flavors; peach, red apple; light oak and medium+ acidity. Balanced with medium+ length and complexity. Very Very Nice!

Sunday, 19 January 2014

Chateau Routas

Chateau Routas Murray Family Wines from Provence, France
Trio tasting

Chateau Routas Couteaux Varois En Provence 2012 13%
This is a rose wine that displays a salmon oil/peach/apricot hue

Sweet scented with light red florals and light red fruits; it's not a complex wine, but it is enticing with its sandy, chalky mineral suggestions. On the palate the wine is poised, balanced fresh and alive with flavor. Again not complex, but crisp and with exotic and interesting flavors to keep me interested. Balanced with medium length and medium- complexity.
Serve chilled
3.75 Stars

Chateau Routas 'Infernet' Coteaux Varois En Provence 2009 14.8%
38% Grenache, 38% Syrah & 24% Cab Sav

An integrated bouquet with a mix of brown spices, earthy chalk-like textures and flavors. Plums, sweet black berries, and mild raspberry & pepper notes. Overall a dry, earthy Old World styled wine.
Will please many who try, but I would suggest it's best enjoyed along side your favorite meaty, earthy dish.
3.5 Stars

Chateau Routas 'Cyrano' Vin De Pays Du Var 2008 14.5%
100% Syrah
earthy with aromas of spiced meats, mushrooms and wild raspberry. Black fruits, violets and pepper notes. On the palate a balanced, dry wine that is still integrating yet tasty; Plenty of red fruits and earthy flavors, a little spicier on the palate than the nose first suggested - the use of oak emphasizing these qualities; Medium to medium + tannins, brown spices, oak textures and flavors. Balanced with medium length and medium(+) complexity. Well made and highly recommended.
4 Stars

Saturday, 18 January 2014

Brick Bay

Brick Bay 
Trio Tasting

Merlot 2010 13%
Medium+ intensity with a bouquet that reflects plums and dark berries, brown spices, a potpourri of aged violets, baking spices and a nudge of leather; plenty of oak too, but most of all - harmony!
On the palate - the flavors immediately reflect what the nose suggests along with medium+ acidity, medium+ tannins which have a youthful grasp - not so tight and poised that I would say 'cellar this wine' but if you do - not for too long (2-3 years). The softer side of this wine is yet to emerge, but will. 
Decant for service and enjoy today or cellar for a short time.
Balanced, Medium++ length and Medium+ complexity
4.5 Stars

Martello Rock 2010 13%
61% Merlot, 18% Cab Sav, 14% Cab Franc & 7$ Malbec
Violets, plums and blackberry laced red fruits, cacao chocolate, well positioned oak. On the palate I like the initial grip of the tannins and acidity - this abates quickly to reveal the mix of spices, red fruits and oak flavors that are  - this wine. A youthful expression with medium+ acidity and a longish dry finish. Balanced, medium+ length and medium+ complexity.
Decant and drink now or cellar for 3-5 years.
Overall a very nice and highly recommended example.
4.75 Stars
The previous vintage of this wine (2009) was a different blend and therefore a different expression - 40% Malbec, 37% Merlot, 23% Cab Franc. Also a very nice wine, but one that I would suggest is enjoyed sooner or cellared for a further 1- 2 years.

Pharos 2010 13.5%
Dusty chocolate, powdered cocoa, brown spices and a medium+ toasty oak hit on the nose; this is followed by fresh, wild and cooked red berry fruits, violets and a hint of the exotic from currants aromas*. There's no doubting this wine also has complexity.
The palate reveals the flavors, complexity and concentration that the nose suggests along with medium+ youthfully grippy tannins, medium+ acidity, red fruits concentration and flavors of milk and dark chocolate, mild violets and earthy qualities.
Balanced, long finish and a medium+ complexity.
4.95 Stars


Saturday, 11 January 2014

Hawkdun Rise

Hawkdun Rise Pinots Noir Tasting - Five Vintages

2008 - A very special wine from a challenging vintage. Gentle ruby red hues with garnet nuances.
Now that this wine has had five years in bottle it is ready - gentle mature bouquet of lite red fruits and a little plum with a light savory edge and a touch of mushroom. On the palate a wine that is quite light on its feet with an equally gentle flavor profile - that said there is complexity as well as the combination of bottle age, moderate tannins, medium acidity, quality fruit and smart wine making. Balanced, medium length and medium complexity.
4 Stars

2009 - Garnet with Burgundy hues.
A fragrant and fruity bouquet with Old Rose , mushroom and cinnamon spiced cherry plus light red fruits; overall a medium+ complexity.
On the palate - quite a youthful wine still with a tart edge to the fruit flavors especially the cherry; savory flavors with medium+ brown spices; the oak is still integrating into this wine - that said the tannins show a fineness giving a layer of texture and length. Balanced, medium+ length and complexity. Still the charmer.
5 Stars

2010 - Youthful red, plum red hues, bright.
A very youthful and bright bouquet with a mix of light red fruits, medium+ oak - sweet vanillin; fine almost exotic light savory edge.
Palate follows what the nose suggests - with a lush edge to the fruits, persistent medium+ acidity; youthfully firm yet fine medium+ tannins. The fruit flavors suggest Central Otago but also a lightly tart edge with a plum note. Balanced with medium to medium+ length and complexity.
4 Stars

2011 - Youthful and raspberry red hues, day bright appearance
A vibrant and expressive bouquet with savory dried herb layers alongside some 'classic' Pinot Noir fruits of raspberry and cherry then a little English Breakfast Tea and even a light Cola suggestion.
The palate follows the nose well with an emphasis on the savory side (today) highlighting the integrating oak. There is plenty of fruit concentration here as well; medium dusty fine tannins, medium+ acidity; Balanced with medium+ length and medium+ complexity.
One to keep.
5 Stars

2012 - Ruby pink hues, very bright.
Lots of raspberry and sweet plum fruit alongside a vibrant youthful lick of oak; crisp acidity with medium+ tannins that carry a fine chalky note; Balanced with medium length and complexity.
A wine that is overall very good and will easily stand up to a few more years in bottle (2-3); I can see this example working well on wine lists as a by the glass option.
3.5 Stars